Trip to Secos

Finally, I felt good enough to get out of the house today!  With Nate in tow, I drove up the coast to check out the place where I caught my first really memorable wave.  I was riding a borrowed 1970′s 8’6″ Skip Frye with a crazy vee bottom.  I remember making a bottom turn and feeling the sensation of being on what felt like an endless wave.  It’s a perfect little wave too.

Today, there wasn’t much size to it, but there was nobody on it.  I mean nobody.  I’ve seen it plenty of days this size with a dozen people paddling around each other to get one of these tasty little morsels.

Of course, I was watching Nate so I didn’t even have my board with me so I just tried not to look at all the little waves go unridden.  Instead, we tried to find some cool shells and picked up some trash here and there until it was time to head off the the park as I had promised.

Empty Waves

Nate showing off his balance

A crazy neon green anemone (no Photoshop, I promise)

Ready to head to our next destination